Berry RushSumatra coffee from Indonesia · Natural

Asman Gayo Mill sits in the Pegasing district of Takengon, in Aceh — Sumatra's most celebrated coffee region. It's run by Asman Arianto, a Cup of Excellence winner, and it gathers cherry from smallholders across the Pantan Musara villages: families who were displaced from their land by a natural disaster and rebuilt their lives around coffee. Almost every mill in Sumatra wet-hulls — the Giling Basah method behind the island's earthy reputation — but Asman is one of the few also producing naturals. This lot is dried as whole cherry on raised beds over several weeks, its sugars settling into the bean. Grown between 1,300 and 1,650 metres from the region's Ateng, Bor Bor, Catimor and Timor varieties, it tastes nothing like a typical Sumatra: the fruit-forward cup of cacao, cooked cranberry and dried plum.

Roasted omni — dialled to taste great both ways, so brew it however suits you. As a bright, tea-like pour-over: 15 g coffee to 255 g water at 92–94 °C, ground coarse, blooming 30–45 g for 30 seconds then topping up to 255 g over 2:30–3:00 ⚙︎. In an AeroPress for something quick and forgiving: 15 g coffee, 230 g water at ~92 °C, steep 1:30 and press gently for 60 seconds ⚙︎. Or as espresso, if you have a machine: 19 g in, 48–50 g out in 26–32 seconds at 93 °C, ground fine ⚙︎. Whichever you choose, taste and change one variable at a time — grind first.